OTHER ISLANDS

From the highlands of Sumatra to the amazing jungles of Kalimantan, Sulawesi and Papua, some of
the world’s best dive sites and the varied wonders of Nusa Tenggara, the vast sprawl of islands that
make up Indonesia offer endless possibilities for intrepid travellers.

     The little-visited islands outside overcrowded Java and Bali are a real-life paradise for adventurers and anthropologists. It is mind-boggling how many different cultures each with its own handicrafts, languages, architecture and rituals  can be found in a single country, and the vast majority of them are outside Indonesia’s two major points of entry.

      In Sumatra, ethnic groups range from the mostly Christian, once cannibalistic Batak to one of the planet’s few matrilineal clans, now primarily Muslim. Kalimantan has its Dayak tribes, and in Sulawesi the Torajans still hold elaborate funeral rituals, requiring the sacrifice of hosts of buffalo and pigs. Papua (formerly called Irian Jaya) is the land of Indonesia’s most remote tribes, and the eastern part of sparsely inhabited Nusa Tenggara (‘Southeastern islands’), extending eastwards from Lombok to Timor, is home to hand-weaving cultures that have survived for generations in Indonesia’s poorest area.

 

Get around by ferry.

Corrie Wingate

Extreme surfers have long known about the power waves, particularly off southern shores. Divers have only begun to discover various subterranean ecosystems. The islands’ majestic volcanoes and mountains beg to be climbed, their caves explored, and their forests trekked. Some of the planet’s rarest creatures are found in the ‘Other Islands’ of Indonesia. Be forewarned that travel to areas outside of major cities and towns can be slow and difficult. But, of course, it is their very
remoteness that has kept old traditions alive.

Sumatra
Entering Sumatra via Medan , Gunung Leuser National Park is Sumatra’s prime orang-utan viewing destination. Encompassing 8,000 sq km (5,000 sq miles) of dense jungle, the Park is also home to elephants, rhinos, sun bears, tigers, and some 500 bird species. The Bohorok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre  at Bukit Lawang has a well-run station with a superb visitor centre and offers guided jungle treks.

The mountain heartland
To visit the heartland of the once-cannibalistic Batak, take the scenic route from Medan to Danau Toba 2 [map] (Lake Toba) via Berastagi. On the eastern shore of this, the world’s largest and deepest crater lake, is Parapat   offering deluxe hotels, golf courses, watersports and a refreshingly brisk climate. Samosir, the island that dominates the lake is, at 1,000 sq km (380 sq miles), almost the size of Singapore. The carved boat-like tomb of animistic King Sidabutar and ritual statues of buffalo
sacrifices are in Tomok on Samosir’s east coast. Nearby Ambarita has three megalithic complexes where the fates of prisoners were once decided and prisoners were executed and eaten.

       The world’s largest matrilineal society, the Minangkabau culture, is reached via picturesque Bukittinggi , some 250km (155 miles) to the south. From there, make excursions to the plains of Tanah Datar to see traditional Minangkabau architecture, with roofs turned up to resemble the horns of a water buffalo. The area’s kain songket (hand-woven cloths with gold or silver borders) are coveted formal wear for Jakarta ladies and are relatively expensive.

Minangkabau architecture near Bukittinggi.

Corrie Wingate/Apa Pub lications

Coasts and islands

Off Sumatra’s west coast is a string of ancient islands, the most-visited of which is Nias, known for its stone architectural styles and rituals and world-class surfing.

      Comprising estuaries, marshes and open grassland along the southeast coast, Way Kambas National Park, entered via Bandar Lampung , is the best place to see wild elephants, while birdwatching is a delight. All are best observed by boat trips arranged by Park authorities. Elephant-training classes are held daily at 8am and 3pm.

Lombok to Timor
The unique Sasak culture of Lombok  and its especially fine earthenware attract a few visitors, but the island is best known for its beaches and scenery. Lombok is part of the Lesser Sunda Islands chain. The capital is Mataram, at the southern end of the coastal tourist strip.

Senggigi’s beautiful beaches, on Lombok’s western coast, have good coral for snorkelling and diving, and primarily attract those who seek solace from Bali’s hustle and bustle, with accommodations ranging from budget to deluxe. Kuta is famous for beautiful, deserted, white sand beaches. Southern Lombok is considered among the best in the world for surfing, and includes
Desert Point at Banko Banko. Sekotong, in southwestern Lombok, is known for its numerous scuba diving locations. Volcano climbing – not for novices – and trekking for all levels are popular in Rinjani National Park . Budget-minded divers revel in the laid-back remoteness of three small islands off the northwest coast: Gili Meno, Gili Air and Gili Trawangan.

Sumbawa and Komodo
East of Lombok is Sumbawa , whose port town, Bima, is a gateway for Komodo National Park. There is world-class surfing on the west coast and epic waves on the southeastern coast at Hu’u’s Lakey’s beach. Gunung Tambora  for serious climbers only   has a gaping 2,820-metre (9,250ft) -high caldera and spectacular views.

Komodo island , east of Sumbawa, is home to the world’s largest reptile, Varanus komodoensis, the Komodo dragon. Treks begin at Loh Liang ranger station to see these remarkably large lizards in their natural habitat. Neighbouring Rinca (pronounced ren-cha) island, is more rugged and not as crowded as Komodo can be in the high season (July and August), and is a great place for trekking. Scuba diving and snorkelling in the offshore waters is some of the best in the region.

Flores, Ikat weavings and crater lakes
The Trans-Flores highway winds its way from western Flores at Labuhanbajo  an entry point to Komodo National Park  to Larantuka in the east, the departure point to the Solor and Alor archipelagos.
   
     From the west, Ende is the beginning of Flores’ magnificent hand-woven textile cultures, while the ikat cloths of villages near Maumere sport a greater variety of colours. At Moni, visit Gunung Kelimutu at sunrise to see three adjacent volcanic crater lakes believed to house the spirits of sorcerers, sinners and virgins.

For hand-woven textile enthusiasts, the main attraction of the Solor and Alor 9 [map] islands are their primitive ikat
        weavings. Recently, Alor has established itself as a prime diving site. Between the two groups of small islands is Lembata, noted for its harpoon-wielding traditional whalers.

Timor and other islands
Kupang , Timor, is the usual turn-around point for excursions from the west through Nusa Tenggara. Rote (also spelt Roti), southwest of Timor, shelters more than 18 ethnic groups and is known for its colourful ikat weavings and its southern
beaches.

Although Sawu (also spelt Savu), further west, is a poor, dry island, its people, particularly the women, and their handwoven ikat cloths are exquisite.
Of all the ikat weaving cultures in eastern Indonesia, Sumba !  is perhaps best known. Its elaborate megalithic tombs, annual Pasola ritual battles, and mind-blowing surfing have attracted visitors for decades.

Kalimantan
Despite the well-documented efforts of the logging companies, much of Kalimantan – the Indonesian part of the huge island of Borneo  is still a remote jungle wilderness.

The principal point of entry to eastern Kalimantan is the town of Balikpapan @ , although neither it, nor Samarinda up the coast, hold much interest for travellers. These two towns are, however, gateways to the great Sungai Mahakam (Mahakam River), where several Dayak tribes live. Tour packages are the easiest way to traverse the Mahakam, and Tenggarong, about 2 hours away, is where cruises begin.

Muara Muntai, home to the Kutai Dayak, is the departure point for exploring the mid-Mahakam lakes region. At Tanjung Isuy, the most popular destination in the area, Dayak welcome rituals are frequently performed. There is a rebuilt longhouse with 24 doors  the only two-storey longhouse in Kalimantan at Mancong village.