This is one of the most confounding, challenging, and yet rewarding cities in the world. Amidst its
traffic-clogged roads and towering buildings are some of the most exquisite historical edifices
anywhere.
At first glance, this city of 10 million people seems a bewildering blend of new and old, exotic and commonplace, all merged into one metropolitan melange sprawling for mile after mile on either side of the Chao Phraya River. If Bangkok seems to lack order, it is because it has never had any, save for the royal core of the city where the kings built their palaces and royal temples. Although the city is around 400 years old, it only became the nation’s capital in 1782, when the current royal dynasty was established.
The long and winding Chao Phraya River is the city’s anchor. Bangkok’s founding king dug a canal between two of the river’s bends and sliced off a parcel of land into an artificial island called Rattanakosin. With glittering highlights including the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, it is an essential part of any city tour.
Southeast (downriver) from Rattanakosin are the enclaves where foreigners originally settled Chinatown, Little India (or Pahurat), and Thanon Silom, where the European riverfront community resided. Today, Silom, together with Thanon Sathorn and Thanon Sukhumvit further east, have become important business and commercial centres. To the north of Rattanakosin is Dusit, centred on the wide boulevard of Thanon Ratchadamnoen and one of the oldest parts of Bangkok.
Across on the opposite bank of the Chao Phraya is Thonburi, with canals still threading through colourful neighbourhoods.
The Phra Si Rattana Chedi at Wat Phra Kaew.
Peter Stuckings/Apa Pub lications
Royal Bangkok
The southern side of Thanon Na Phra Lan is lined by the white crenulated walls of Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace A daily 8.30am 4.30pm, tickets sold until 3.30pm; charge), Bangkok’s most famous sight. The only entrance and exit to the complex is in the middle. On the right are the offices of the Royal Household, to the left is the ticket booth.
The first stop within the palace grounds is Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), the royal chapel of the Grand Palace. Passing though the gate, you will confront 6-metre (20ft) -tall demon statues inspired by the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Indian epic Ramayana. You must walk the glittering length of the bot (ordination chapel) to reach its entrance. In front are scattered Chinese-style statues, which function as stand-ins for incense offerings to the Emerald Buddha inside. The 75cm (30-inch) -tall jadeite statue is perched high on an altar, clothed according to the season and enclosed in a glass case, and shielded by a towering nine-tiered umbrella.
Visitors must be dressed smartly – no shorts, short skirts or revealing tops, open-toed sandals or flip-flops. Suitable clothing may be borrowed from an office near the Gate of Victory.
Wat Arun
Directly opposite the Grand Palace on the other side of the Chao Phraya River is Wat Arun B one of the river’s oldest and most distinctive landmarks, dating back to the Ayutthaya period. Also known as the Temple of Dawn, its 82-metre (270ft) -high prang (tall spire) is bedecked with millions of tiny pieces of Chinese porcelain. The five-towered temple represents Mount Meru, spiritual centre of Buddhist/Hindu cosmology.
The golden Buddha in Wat Suthat.
Peter Stuckings/Apa Pub lications
Getting across the river is simple thanks to a fleet of long-tail boats stationed at various piers, or tha. As well as short trips from one side to the other, it is also possible to book a cruise along the river and the canals that branch off it. Such trips show the extremes of Bangkok, passing by five-star hotels on one side, then moving off to the wooden riverside shacks where young children play in the brown water.
Once back on the Grand Palace side, turn left on Thanon Maharat and walk south past Thanon Thai Wang, which runs into the Tha Tien river-taxi dock after passing a fresh market surrounded by early 20th-century shophouses.
Turn left (ie east) onto Soi Chetuphon and head for the gate to Wat Pho Bangkok’s largest and oldest temple, predating the Bangkok dynasty. Its first buildings were constructed in the 16th
century. Few statues are more impressive than its 46-metre (150ft) -long Reclining Buddha, which occupies the entirety of a building in the northwestern corner of the extensive palace complex. Mother-of-pearl on the soles of the feet details the 108 signs of a true Buddha.
A treasure trove of Thai and Southeast Asian riches, the National Museum except public
holidays; charge) comprises a half-dozen old and new buildings. One of the oldest is at the rear of the compound, the Wang Na, dating from 1782. This vast palace once extended across to Khlong Lot and up to the Grand Palace, and its name refers to the palace of the so-called second king, a deputy king of sorts. When King Chulalongkorn’s heir-apparent the second king attempted a violent overthrow, Chulalongkorn abolished the office in 1887 and tore down most of the buildings. The Wang Na
is one of the remnants, serving as the National Museum and housing khon masks, gold and ceramic pieces, palanquins, weapons, instruments and an elephant riding-seat made from ivory.
East of the Grand Palace
At the next cross-street, Thanon Ratchabophit, turn right to visit one of the most attractive temples off the beaten tourist path. Before crossing over the canal, however, notice immediately to the north what appears to be a golden pig lording over a construction site, actually an archaeological excavation. The Pig Memorial was built in 1913 as a birthday present from friends to Queen Saowapha, Chulalongkorn’s favourite wife, who was born in the Year of the Pig.
Across the bridge, Wat Ratchabophit is easily recognisable by its distinctive doors,
carved in relief with jaunty soldiers wearing European uniforms. Built in 1870 by Rama
V (1868–1910), the design was intended to meld Western and Thai art forms. The bot’s windows and entrance doors are works of art. Inlaid mother-of-pearl depicts the insignias of the five royal ranks.
Continue north up Thanon Fuang Nakhon and turn right at the second corner onto Soi Suthat. Two short blocks on is Wat Suthat . Completed during the reign of Rama III, it is noted for its enormous stupa, said to be the tallest in Bangkok. The doors are among the wonders of Thai art. Carved to a depth of 5cm (2 inches), they follow the Ayutthayan tradition of floral motifs, with tangled jungle vegetation hiding small animals.
Immediately north is a giant red and wooden gateway, all that remains of the 200-year-old Giant Swing (Sao Ching Cha), once the centrepiece of an annual ceremony honouring the Hindu god Shiva. In the past, a bench bearing teams of two to four standing young men was suspended from the crosspiece and the men would attempt to catch (with their teeth) a bag of gold suspended from on high. The swing was taken down in 2006 for safety reasons.
North of the old royal city
Northward to Dusit, crossing the khlong (canal), Thanon Ratchadamnoen turns into a pleasant, tree-lined boulevard that leads to an immense square with a statue of King Chulalongkorn on horseback. To the left of the square lies the spacious Amporn Gardens, complete with fountains, trees and an air of grandeur.
At the back of the square is the former National Assembly (Parliament) building, built in 1907 by Chulalongkorn. To the east is Dusit Zoo , the city’s main animal park and one of the most
popular places in Bangkok for family outings. An aviary and enclosures containing exotic wildlife surround a lake with boats for rent.
Behind the old National Assembly is Vimanmek tickets sold until 3.15pm; charge, or free with Grand Palace entrance ticket), billed as the world’s largest golden teak building. Vimanmek was
built by Chulalongkorn as a residence for his family in what was, in 1900, a suburb of Bangkok. The 100-room home is filled with exquisite European objects.
Just past the railway line on the north side of Thanon Sri Ayutthaya are the grounds of the Chitralada Palace . Surrounded by a moat and high fencing, the grounds include grazing cattle, milk churns and fishponds.
Wat Benjamabophit , the Marble Temple, lies on the other side of Thanon Sri Ayutthaya. The last major temple built in Bangkok, construction was initiated by Rama V in 1900 and finished 10 years later. Designed by Prince Naris, a half-brother of the king, the temple’s features are largely a departure from the traditional style. The most obvious of these must be the enclosed courtyard, the Carrara marble used to cover the main buildings, and the curved, yellow Chinese roof tiles. Behind the bot is a gallery holding 51 Buddha images from around Asia.
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