Buddhism

Buddhism was founded by an Indian prince, Siddhartha Gautama (ca. 566–486 BCE), after he became enlightened that is, discovered the “truth” that human existence is based on suffering because of our desires. To free ourselves of suffering, and the cycles of birth and rebirth that humans must endure, we must follow the eightfold path: right view, right resolve, right speech, right livelihood, right effort, right mindfulness, right concentration, and right action. In other words, be kind to all in word, action, and thought.

         Achieving this state of enlightenment means one has achieved Nirvana and will no longer have to be reborn as a human to suffer through the cycles of karma (essentially, good and bad things that happen to you because of good and bad things you did in past lifetimes).


        Buddhism was introduced into China from India during the Han dynasty in the first
century CE, when Indian Buddhism spread along the Silk Road first to China’s westernmost province of Xinjiang, where it moved from the ancient capital of Changan (present-day Xi’an) inward to Luoyang in Henan Province. During the Sui dynasty (581–618 CE), Buddhism became the state religion of China.


        At various times throughout Chinese history, Buddhism blended with folk religious practices as well as Confucianism and Daoism. At other times, Buddhism found itself in opposition to these other religious and philosophical traditions.


     “Zen” Buddhism (as it is called in the West after the Japanese term) is known as Chan Buddhism in China. It emphasizes attaining enlightenment through meditation. Zen has influenced many poets and works of art, which are striking for their simplicity of line and strong graphic qualities as well as use of negative (blank) space.

      Today many sects of Buddhism are practiced in China. Although the Communist Party officially espouses atheism, and members must be atheists, Chinese citizens have the right to practice religion, so long as their sect is approved by the government and obeys Chinese laws. As a result, Buddhist monasteries and nunneries are once again flourishing across the country after being severely persecuted during the Cultural Revolution under Mao’s leadership.

       The Shaolin Temple located in Henan Province is unquestionably the most famous monastery in China. Tens of thousands of domestic and foreign tourists travel to this mountain temple every year to see contemporary Shaolin monks practice the unique form of martial arts that has immortalized them in film and fiction.

       However, there are other less famous but equally active monasteries, temples, and sites for Buddhist pilgrims throughout the entirety of China, many of which are being renovated by the Chinese government in acknowledgment of their huge appeal to tourists, both the faithful and the merely curious. Giant Buddhist statues carved into mountainsides can be seen in Emei Shan
outside Chengdu in Sichuan Province as well as Luoyang in Henan Province. Many pilgrims still take to heart the adage that before dying they should show their devotion to the Buddha by climbing Huang Shan and Tai Shan (Yellow Mountain in Anhui Province and Mount Tai in Shandong Province), believed to be sacred sites because of their great beauty and proximity to the
heavens. Meanwhile, in the Xishuang Banna Autonomous Region next to Burma (Myanmar), many sons of the ethnic minorities who live in this southern part of Yunnan Province are expected to serve as apprentice monks for at least one year in their lives to gain merit for their parents as well as to learn about their own culture separate from the Han Chinese curriculum that they are taught in public schools. The Buddhism practiced among these groups is very similar to that of Thailand and Cambodia.


     However, in provinces that border Tibet, many ethnic Tibetans as well as Han Chinese practice the Tibetan tantric form of Buddhism (although they are not allowed to follow the teachings of the Dalai Lama, who lives in exile in India).

     Tourists irrespective of religious faith are generally welcome to visit Buddhist temples although visitors may not be allowed to enter inner sanctuaries. It is best not to dress in scanty clothing; men should always wear shirts and women should not bare a lot of cleavage or wear short-shorts or miniskirts out of respect for the monks. Some temples allow you to take pictures, others do not. Signs are generally posted if they do not allow photographs. When in doubt, ask.
   

Buddhism

Canton (Guangzhou)

Cuangzhou (pronounced “gwahng joe”) was formerly known in the West as Canton and is the capital of Guangdong Province in southern China. “Canton” became famous in the West as most of the overseas Chinese diaspora originally came from Guangdong Province, leading to the construction of Chinatowns throughout the world where Cantonese, the language of Guangdong Province, was the most commonly spoken dialect, not Mandarin.

      The port city of Guangzhou has always had an international bent as it was one of the earliest points of entry for foreigners coming to China. The Romans arrived here around the second century CE. Much later, in the sixteenth century, Portuguese traders arrived, looking to expand their trade in Chinese ceramics, teas, silks, and spices. Within a few decades, Jesuits arrived, looking to convert Chinese souls to Catholicism. The British first arrived at Guangzhou in the seventeenth century,
with ships from the East India Company looking to trade with China. The Qing dynasty, alarmed by the increasing foreign presence at the port, confined all foreigners to the nearby island of Shamian and authorized a single merchant group, known as the cohong, to oversee China’s trade with the outside world. The British decided to tip the trade imbalance in their favor by dumping cheap opium onto the Guangzhou market, creating addicts who would later be willing to pay much inflated prices. The Qing government tried to stop the British opium trade, leading to the Opium War, which the British with their superior arms were able to win. As a result, the Chinese government was forced to cede nearby Hong Kong Island to Great Britain.


    The port city of Guangzhou has always had an international bent as it was one of the earliest points of entry for foreigners coming to China. The Romans arrived here around the second century CE. Much later, in the sixteenth century, Portuguese traders arrived, looking to expand their trade in Chinese ceramics, teas, silks, and spices. Within a few decades, Jesuits arrived, looking to convert Chinese souls to Catholicism. The British first arrived at Guangzhou in the seventeenth century,
with ships from the East India Company looking to trade with China. The Qing dynasty, alarmed by the increasing foreign presence at the port, confined all foreigners to the nearby island of Shamian and authorized a single merchant group, known as the cohong, to oversee China’s trade with the outside world. The British decided to tip the trade imbalance in their favor by dumping cheap opium onto the Guangzhou market, creating addicts who would later be willing to pay much inflated prices. The Qing government tried to stop the British opium trade, leading to the Opium War, which the British with their superior arms were able to win. As a result, the Chinese government was forced to cede nearby Hong Kong Island to Great Britain.

      Guangzhou today is known for its exquisite cuisine, such as dim sum, and also its adventurous residents’ willingness to eat just about anything from dogs to cats, rats, live shrimp, endangered species, and unusual species not found in other provinces. These eating habits have given Chinese in general the reputation for culinary revolution, but in fact most Chinese from outside Guangdong marvel at the daring of the Cantonese palate. Unfortunately, these adventures in dining occasionally have dire consequences as the 2003 SARS epidemic is now believed to have originated in Guangzhou after people began eating civet cats (a wild animal quite unlike the domesticated pets), which then caused the virus to be transmitted from animal to human.


     Perhaps because Guangzhou has always been marked by an adventurous spirit—as shown by the number of sojourners, revolutionaries, and gourmands it has spawned the city also was one of the first to embrace market reforms and capitalism. Even in the late 1980s when other Chinese cities were still marked by squat concrete, Soviet-style buildings, a few so-called free markets (where budding entrepreneurs could sell their wares) and many government-run enterprises, Guangzhou was
building skyscrapers, attracting investors from abroad (especially among the large overseas Chinese community with roots in the province), and fast becoming China’s first modern city. Its proximity to Hong Kong and shared Cantonese dialect with Hong Kong residents also helped Guangzhou to bridge the divide between a government-planned economy and a free market economy.

    Today Guangzhou, with more than 12 million residents, remains one of China’s most sophisticated, prosperous, and expensive cities. In a bold move with implications for the rest of China, the municipal government in 2012 announced the strictest measures in the country to reduce by half the number of new cars on its streets, including license plate auctions and lotteries. The central government in Beijing has generally frowned upon such measures for fear of damaging the growing auto industry. Although Guangzhou is also a major auto manufacturing hub, city officials felt it was more important to take steps to improve air quality and reduce gridlock in response to
growing public outcry. The city’s growing middle class no longer accepted the decades-old model of putting short-term economic growth over quality-of-life issues, a change in attitude that could very well be the next new trend that originated in Guangzhou.

Canton (Guangzhou)

Cars In China

Once a nation associated with its millions of bicycles, China is now the second-fastest-growing market for cars in the world. Millions of Chinese have already purchased cars and millions more are expected to make purchases in the coming decade as homegrown automotive companies are able to provide more affordable models for the domestic market.
   
        Already new car sales have reached 18 million annually in China (compared to 14.5 million in the United States) but the room for growth is enormous: whereas there are roughly six hundred cars per one thousand people in the United States, there are only forty-four per one thousand in China as of 2013. Owning a car has become part of the Chinese dream; as one female contestant explained on a popular television dating show, “I’d rather cry in the back of a BMW than smile on the back of a
bicycle.”

       Despite heavy tariffs, sales of luxury cars have been growing steadily over the last decade and are predicted to surpass the United States by 2016. In fact, when Rolls-Royce launched a special $1.2 million “Year of the Dragon” version of its Phantom model, all eight were sold in less than two months.

      Meanwhile, China is seeking to make a splash in the foreign automobile market, building car factories in Wuhu, Anhui Province, for example, and supplying automotive parts of high quality that are cheaper than those produced in the United States, Germany, or Japan. And in 2012 a Chinese company took over the storied British Black Cab company, a longtime symbol of modern London that was prominently displayed in the opening ceremony for the 2012 Summer Olympics in London.


      Car brands have their own associations in China. Audis are seen as the car of choice of government officials, Buicks are a family model, and Ferrari and Porsches are the favorite of the “Red Princelings” the children of wealthy and connected government officials. China’s own Chery QQ hatchback may have been designed with the domestic market in mind, but as one Chinese businessman told the Guardian newspaper, if he drove such a low-end car to meet a client, the business deal would be “doomed” before he ever reached the door.


     Cars can also take on political significance. During anti-Japanese street demonstrations following a political standoff over the contested sovereignty of the Diaoyu Islands (the Japanese also claim them, calling them the Senkaku), a mob pulled a Chinese man out of his Toyota Corolla and beat him so severely, he was paralyzed.

     The Chinese love affair with the car has had negative consequences for the environment. Congestion now reigns in China’s cities. In one contest sponsored by the media group Bloomberg, a bicyclist was better able to navigate Beijing, beating a Porsche by nearly a half hour. And China holds the ignominious record of worst traffic jam for a twelve-day, sixty-two-mile standstill on a national highway outside Beijing in 2012. Worst of all is the quality of air in the capital city. Smog levels literally blew the charts in 2013, measuring 755 on a scale of 0 to 500, where 500 was already supposed to be too toxic for humans to breathe.

       Road deaths resulting from traffic accidents are high, although how high remains a matter of debate. The Chinese government issued official figures in 2011 showing a decrease in deaths at 62,387 people, although researchers claim the real toll is likely much higher, saying police records show 81,649 deaths in 2007, and death registrations for the year show that 221,135 died because of car crashes.

       What this means for the ever-pragmatic tourist is that it’s a very good idea to use the restroom before embarking on a car trip.

      The other essential piece of knowledge you will need to know about cars is that you should never assume a car will stop for a pedestrian in its path. One American student of ours commented poignantly about watching a Chinese pedestrian get struck by a car while attempting to cross the street at a designated crosswalk. “He might have survived, if not for the fact that every other car turning onto the street ran over him, too.”

       In the early to mid-1980s, such accidents were not uncommon either, but back then drivers had an excuse: during the Cultural Revolution red lights meant go (red being the color of revolution and Marxism) and green lights meant stop. When Deng Xiaoping ushered in the reform era in 1979, traffic light meanings were changed to conform with the rest of the world. Older drivers may not have gotten the message. Also, in an attempt to save their headlight bulbs, which in China’s nascent
market-based economy were not that easily attainable, cars and trucks tended to drive at night with their headlights off.

     Today, however, it seems drivers are merely impatient, cross, and distracted (there are no enforceable laws banning cell phone use or even preventing drivers from watching satellite TV in their cars handy during long traffic jams but deadly at other times). Drivers are also fairly self-confident that when it comes to a showdown between a car and a pedestrian, the pedestrian will not emerge victorious. Therefore, it is a very good idea to cross the street with a group of people. Running over an individual may be hazardous if a cop happens to be nearby, but running over a massive group of people will definitely dent the driver’s car, and people are really fond of their cars. As China’s city streets tend to be quite crowded, it is not difficult to find a group to cross with, even when jaywalking.

      But remember, never assume a car will slow down for you alone just because you happen to be in its path!

Cars In China

Chiang Kai-shek In China

Chiang Kai-shek (1886–1975) remains one of the more colorful and notorious figures of twentieth-century history and the role he has played in modern Chinese history will remain controversial for a long time.

       Chiang (in Mandarin: Jiang Jieshi) rose to power in the 1920s, largely through his influence with the notorious Green Gang of Shanghai, which controlled much of the city’s political and financial underworld. He became the leader of the famed Northern Expedition, a military expedition against China’s warlords to try to unite China under the control of the Nationalist Party (also known in English as the KMT, after its spelling at that time in history, the Kuomintang). At the same time, he organized a campaign to break ties with the Chinese Communist Party, his erstwhile allies, and staged a massacre of their cells in Shanghai in 1927.


      By 1928, Chiang had succeeded in convincing the warlords to fly the flag of the new Chinese Republic and swear allegiance to him. He soon established the new capital in Nanjing. He also married the powerful and ambitious Soong Meiling, the American-educated daughter of wealthy Bible salesman Charlie Soong. (He abandoned, or at least conveniently forgot about, his first wife in order to do so.)

      Generalissimo Chiang, as he now called himself, allowed the Japanese to invade and take over most of Manchuria, but when the Japanese staged a fight in July 1937 at the Marco Polo Bridge outside Beijing, Chiang ordered his troops to fight back, eventually attacking Japanese ships in Shanghai. Chiang hoped that by bringing the war to the West’s favorite port city, he would gain sympathy. Instead, the better-equipped Japanese Imperial Army marched inland to his capital and by December 1937, its soldiers had sacked the city in what would become known as the infamous Rape of Nanjing.

     After the Japanese strike at Pearl Harbor, America allied itself with China. Unfortunately, Chiang did not get along with U.S. general “Vinegar Joe” Stilwell, who spoke fluent Mandarin and loved the Chinese people, but couldn’t stand Chiang’s corrupt government. Chiang, Stilwell claimed, was more intent upon using his military resources to fight the Communists than the Japanese, and his wife’s family were reportedly lining their own bank accounts with American aid dollars. Stilwell took to
calling Chiang “the Peanut,” after the shape of the Generalissimo’s famously bald head, and Chiang finally prevailed upon President Roosevelt to remove Stilwell from his command overseeing the China-Burma-India theater in 1944.

      After being kidnapped by General Zhang Xueliang and released only after vowing to stop his counterproductive civil war, Chiang did form another alliance, the so-called United Front, with the Communists (1937–45) to fight together against the advancing Japanese military.

      After World War II ended, from 1945 to 1949 Chiang waged an open civil war with Mao Zedong’s People’s Liberation Army. By 1949, President Truman was no longer willing to aid the Generalissimo, and it was clear Chiang had no chance of winning the civil war. He then fled with his troops to the island of Taiwan.

      From the 1950s to the 1970s, Chiang ruled over Taiwan under a state of martial law and vowed to “take back the mainland” from Mao. He died on April 5, 1975, without attaining his goal.


     Today Chiang’s hometown of Fenghua in Zhejiang Province has been renovated as a tourist attraction. Before that, his cultural visibility in the mainland, besides vilification in textbooks, was limited to a sly visual reference in director Zhang Yimou’s 1995 mobster classic, Shanghai Triad, in which the gangland boss played by veteran actor Li Baotian was rumored to have been modeled, at least physically, on the Generalissimo.

Chiang Kai-shek In China

Go to Visit BANGKOK Thailand

This is one of the most confounding, challenging, and yet rewarding cities in the world. Amidst its
traffic-clogged roads and towering buildings are some of the most exquisite historical edifices
anywhere.

          At first glance, this city of 10 million people seems a bewildering blend of new and old, exotic and commonplace, all merged into one metropolitan melange sprawling for mile after mile on either side of the Chao Phraya River. If Bangkok seems to lack order, it is because it has never had any, save for the royal core of the city where the kings built their palaces and royal temples. Although the city is around 400 years old, it only became the nation’s capital in 1782, when the current royal dynasty was established.

          The long and winding Chao Phraya River is the city’s anchor. Bangkok’s founding king dug a canal between two of the river’s bends and sliced off a parcel of land into an artificial island called Rattanakosin. With glittering highlights including the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, it is an essential part of any city tour.

          Southeast (downriver) from Rattanakosin are the enclaves where foreigners originally settled  Chinatown, Little India (or Pahurat), and Thanon Silom, where the European riverfront community resided. Today, Silom, together with Thanon Sathorn and Thanon Sukhumvit further east, have become important business and commercial centres. To the north of Rattanakosin is Dusit, centred on the wide boulevard of Thanon Ratchadamnoen and one of the oldest parts of Bangkok.

         Across on the opposite bank of the Chao Phraya is Thonburi, with canals still threading through colourful neighbourhoods.

The Phra Si Rattana Chedi at Wat Phra Kaew.

Peter Stuckings/Apa Pub lications

Royal Bangkok

The southern side of Thanon Na Phra Lan is lined by the white crenulated walls of Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace A daily 8.30am 4.30pm, tickets sold until 3.30pm; charge), Bangkok’s most famous sight. The only entrance and exit to the complex is in the middle. On the right are the offices of the Royal Household, to the left is the ticket booth.

         The first stop within the palace grounds is Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), the royal chapel of the Grand Palace. Passing though the gate, you will confront 6-metre (20ft) -tall demon statues inspired by the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Indian epic Ramayana. You must walk the glittering length of the bot (ordination chapel) to reach its entrance. In front are scattered Chinese-style statues, which function as stand-ins for incense offerings to the Emerald Buddha inside. The 75cm (30-inch) -tall jadeite statue is perched high on an altar, clothed according to the season and enclosed in a glass case, and shielded by a towering nine-tiered umbrella.

         Visitors must be dressed smartly – no shorts, short skirts or revealing tops, open-toed sandals or flip-flops. Suitable clothing may be borrowed from an office near the Gate of Victory.

Wat Arun

Directly opposite the Grand Palace on the other side of the Chao Phraya River is Wat Arun B  one of the river’s oldest and most distinctive landmarks, dating back to the Ayutthaya period. Also known as the Temple of Dawn, its 82-metre (270ft) -high prang (tall spire) is bedecked with millions of tiny pieces of Chinese porcelain. The five-towered temple represents Mount Meru, spiritual centre of Buddhist/Hindu cosmology.

        

  The golden Buddha in Wat Suthat.

Peter Stuckings/Apa Pub lications

Getting across the river is simple thanks to a fleet of long-tail boats stationed at various piers, or tha. As well as short trips from one side to the other, it is also possible to book a cruise along the river and the canals that branch off it. Such trips show the extremes of Bangkok, passing by five-star hotels on one side, then moving off to the wooden riverside shacks where young children play in the brown water.

         Once back on the Grand Palace side, turn left on Thanon Maharat and walk south past Thanon Thai Wang, which runs into the Tha Tien river-taxi dock after passing a fresh market surrounded by early 20th-century shophouses.

        Turn left (ie east) onto Soi Chetuphon and head for the gate to Wat Pho  Bangkok’s largest and oldest temple, predating the Bangkok dynasty. Its first buildings were constructed in the 16th

century. Few statues are more impressive than its 46-metre (150ft) -long Reclining Buddha, which occupies the entirety of a building in the northwestern corner of the extensive palace complex. Mother-of-pearl on the soles of the feet details the 108 signs of a true Buddha.

       A treasure trove of Thai and Southeast Asian riches, the National Museum except public

holidays; charge) comprises a half-dozen old and new buildings. One of the oldest is at the rear of the compound, the Wang Na, dating from 1782. This vast palace once extended across to Khlong Lot and up to the Grand Palace, and its name refers to the palace of the so-called second king, a deputy king of sorts. When King Chulalongkorn’s heir-apparent   the second king  attempted a violent overthrow, Chulalongkorn abolished the office in 1887 and tore down most of the buildings. The Wang Na

is one of the remnants, serving as the National Museum and housing khon masks, gold and ceramic pieces, palanquins, weapons, instruments and an elephant riding-seat made from ivory.

East of the Grand Palace

 At the next cross-street, Thanon Ratchabophit, turn right to visit one of the most attractive temples off the beaten tourist path. Before crossing over the canal, however, notice immediately to the north what appears to be a golden pig lording over a construction site, actually an archaeological excavation. The Pig Memorial was built in 1913 as a birthday present from friends to Queen Saowapha, Chulalongkorn’s favourite wife, who was born in the Year of the Pig.

          Across the bridge, Wat Ratchabophit  is easily recognisable by its distinctive doors,

carved in relief with jaunty soldiers wearing European uniforms. Built in 1870 by Rama 

V (1868–1910), the design was intended to meld Western and Thai art forms. The bot’s windows and entrance doors are works of art. Inlaid mother-of-pearl depicts the insignias of the five royal ranks.

         Continue north up Thanon Fuang Nakhon and turn right at the second corner onto Soi Suthat. Two short blocks on is Wat Suthat . Completed during the reign of Rama III, it is noted for its enormous stupa, said to be the tallest in Bangkok. The doors are among the wonders of Thai art. Carved to a depth of 5cm (2 inches), they follow the Ayutthayan tradition of floral motifs, with tangled jungle vegetation hiding small animals.

         Immediately north is a giant red and wooden gateway, all that remains of the 200-year-old Giant Swing (Sao Ching Cha), once the centrepiece of an annual ceremony honouring the Hindu god Shiva. In the past, a bench bearing teams of two to four standing young men was suspended from the crosspiece and the men would attempt to catch (with their teeth) a bag of gold suspended from on high. The swing was taken down in 2006 for safety reasons.

North of the old royal city     

         Northward to Dusit, crossing the khlong (canal), Thanon Ratchadamnoen turns into a pleasant, tree-lined boulevard that leads to an immense square with a statue of King Chulalongkorn on horseback. To the left of the square lies the spacious Amporn Gardens, complete with fountains, trees and an air of grandeur.

      At the back of the square is the former National Assembly (Parliament) building, built in 1907 by Chulalongkorn. To the east is Dusit Zoo , the city’s main animal park and one of the most

popular places in Bangkok for family outings. An aviary and enclosures containing exotic wildlife surround a lake with boats for rent.

      Behind the old National Assembly is Vimanmek tickets sold until 3.15pm; charge, or free with Grand Palace entrance ticket), billed as the world’s largest golden teak building. Vimanmek was

built by Chulalongkorn as a residence for his family in what was, in 1900, a suburb of Bangkok. The 100-room home is filled with exquisite European objects.

      Just past the railway line on the north side of Thanon Sri Ayutthaya are the grounds of the Chitralada Palace . Surrounded by a moat and high fencing, the grounds include grazing cattle, milk churns and fishponds.

    Wat Benjamabophit , the Marble Temple, lies on the other side of Thanon Sri Ayutthaya. The last major temple built in Bangkok, construction was initiated by Rama V in 1900 and finished 10 years later. Designed by Prince Naris, a half-brother of the king, the temple’s features are largely a departure from the traditional style. The most obvious of these must be the enclosed courtyard, the Carrara marble used to cover the main buildings, and the curved, yellow Chinese roof tiles. Behind the bot is a gallery holding 51 Buddha images from around Asia.

Go to Visit BANGKOK Thailand

Visit BALI

Bali is a high priority for most visitors to the region. Intense commercialisation has changed the southern part of the island, but elsewhere the magical ambience remains.

             Bali is, first and foremost, a masterpiece of nature, a stunningly beautiful tropical island formed by an east-to-west range of volcanoes rising out of the deep blue sea, fringed by sandy beaches and enriched with fertile soil. And the Balinese have done much to turn these natural blessings to their advantage. All but the steepest land has been painstakingly terraced over thecenturies with rice paddies that hug the volcanic slopes like steps. The land repays these efforts with abundant harvests, which in turn give the people time and energy to devote to their renowned cultural pursuits, the arts and religious obligations.

             Abundant harvests are attributed to the goddess of rice and fertility, Dewi Sri. Her symbol is the cili, two triangles connected in the form of a shapely woman. Divine spirits dwell in the lofty mountains; dark and inimitable forces lurk in the seas. The human’s rightful place is the middle ground between these two extremes, and each home, village and kingdom in Bali, has traditionally been aligned along this mountain sea axis.

       

Young surfer at Kuta.

Corrie Wingate/Apa Pub lications

Isolation and confrontation

Bali was settled and civilised relatively early, as evidenced by stone megaliths scattered about the island. Around a thousand years ago, it became a vassal of the great Hindu empires of eastern Java. Yet Balinese culture developed a sophisticated persona all its own. Bali was united in 1550 under an independent ruler and for two generations experienced a cultural golden age in which an elaborate ceremonial life, and also the arts, flourished.

             Due to their traditional fear of the sea and suspicion of foreigners, the Balinese lived in virtual isolation from the rest of the world until the early 20th century, despite Dutch attempts to control the island. Throughout the 1800s, the Dutch, under the guise of seeking treaties of friendship and commerce, attempted to establish sovereignty over the island. Their incursions culminated in horrific mass suicides (puputan) in 1906, in which Balinese kings and courtiers threw themselves on keris daggers, or ran headlong into Dutch gunfire rather than face the humiliation of surrender. In the end, the Dutch failed to conquer the island. Throughout their invasions, traditions of dance, music, painting, sculpture, poetry, drama and architecture were refined and elaborated, ostensibly for the benefit of Bali’s numerous gods.

Preparing for a temple festival at the holy complex of Pura Besakih.

Corrie Wingate/Apa Pub lications

Southern Bali

As the focus for Bali’s tourism, commerce and government, the south is by far the busiest region. But don’t be deceived by the area’s development. The temple festivals here are legendary for the intensity of their trance dances and the earthiness of their rituals. Denpasar’s palace ceremonies rank among the most regal on the island, and major hotels host highly professional dance performances nightly. During Nyepi (Hindu Day of Silence), thousands of villagers, arrayed in their ceremonial finery, flood the southern shores of Kuta bearing offerings of food for the melis purification rites.

           South of the Ngurah Rai International Airport, a bulbous peninsula fans out to form Bukit Badung . The western and southern shorelines are rimmed with sharp, jutting cliffs, and until the early 1990s there was nothing but scarcely populated dry land. These days, Bukit (as the peninsula is generally known) is home to luxury resorts, villas and Bali’s largest golf course. It is also the site of the region’s most illustrious temple, Pura Luhur Uluwatu , or Temple Above the Headstone (daily daylight hours; charge). The ocean 300 metres (1,000ft) below the temple’s cliff-top perch is favoured by extreme surfers.

           Nusa Dua, an extensive planned-resort area on the northeastern coast of Bukit Badung, has superb beaches that give way to Benoa’s mangroves. Benoa Harbour, lined with higher-end hotels and watersports operations, is the island’s busiest seaport and accommodates fishing boats, inter-island ships and catamarans taking tourists to nearby Nusa Lembongan and Penida for diving.

Kuta and around

Whereas Nusa Dua caters to more upmarket visitors, Kuta is a kind of cluttered, traffic-packed tinseltown with a cosmopolitan feel, especially during peak season (Aug–Sept and Dec–Jan). The resort and Bali’s tourist industry  was shattered by the horrific bombs of 2002 and 2005, and while in some ways those events have changed it forever, Kuta remains a major tourist hub.

        Its natural attractions are a broad beach, pounding surf and sunsets. Away from the beach, Kuta is packed with pubs, bars, restaurants, boutiques, surf shops, and inexpensive hotels. The built-up area merges north into the more sedate Legian, while still further north is decidedly hip Seminyak, which, like Kuta and Legian, has a wide sandy beach and thundering surf but without the crowds. There are a handful of upmarket hotels and a large number of good restaurants and bars. Past the Oberoi Bali hotel is the small but key temple Pura Dalem Petitenget, the Temple of the Awesome Box (daily daylight hours; donation). Many ceremonies are held at this temple, named after the box of betel-chewing ingredients left behind by the Javanese Hindu priest Dang Hyang Nirartha. The main road continues to Kerobokan and then west to Canggu, a black-sand

beach.

      The road from Canggu ends at Pura Tanah Lot , or Temple of the Land in the Sea (daily daylight hours; charge). Perched on a large rock just offshore, it was founded by Dang Hyang Nirartha, the 16th-century Brahman sage considered to be the ancestor of Balinese high priests. To the northwest of the temple is an open stage where regular Ramayana and kecak dance performances are held right after visitors enjoy the famous sunset backdrop over the temple.

    Over on the eastern coast is Sanur , a relatively quiet cluster of hotels and restaurants, with a good beach and water-sports facilities. Of interest is Museum Le Mayeur (daily except Wed 8am 4pm, Fri 8am 1pm; charge) on the beach north of the Inna Grand Bali Beach Hotel. It exhibits the works of the Belgian painter Jean Le Mayeur de Mepres (1880–1958),

who moved to Bali in 1932. All of his paintings depict his wife, Ni Polok, a renowned legong dancer.

Denpasar

Denpasar  is the capital of Bali province. Its main square was the scene of the horrific mass suicide in 1906, when almost the entire royal house of Denpasar rushed headlong into blazing Dutch guns. Successive governments have erected monuments commemorating the event. East of the square stands the town’s main temple, Pura Jagatnatha (daily daylight hours; donation), with a figurine of Tintya, the almighty godhead, glinting from high on the temple’s central shrine. The Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali (also called Museum Bali; Tue–Sun 8am–5pm; charge) next door houses a fine collection of artefacts and examples of Balinese craftsmanship. In the centre of town is Pasar Badung, a four storey building housing the island’s largest traditional market.

Central Bali

North of Denpasar, Ubud is the most popular point outside southern Bali. It is the island’s artistic heart and can be the hub for excursions to the east, north and west.

       One of the most important temples between Denpasar and Ubud is Pura Sada (daily daylight hours; donation) in Kapal. Dating from the 12th century, it has 64 stone seats resembling megalithic ancestral shrines that are believed to commemorate loyal warriors who fell in battle. Just down the road, Tabanan, with its breathaking terraced rice fields, is an ideal place for all-terrain vehicle and four-wheel-drive adventures, as well as cycling and trekking. Past Kapal, a turn-off toward the

mountains leads to Mengwi , a few kilometres north of Kapal. In 1634, the Raja of Mengwi built a magnificent garden temple, Pura Taman Ayun (daily daylight hours; charge). The temple’s spacious compound is surrounded by a moat and is adjacent to a lotus lake. In the surrounding pavilions, priests recite their Vedantic incantations.

     Northeast at Sangeh is one of Bali’s two famed monkey forests. According to Balinese versions of the Ramayana epic, this is where Hanuman’s army landed when the monkey king lifted the sacred mountain, Mahameru, and broke it apart in order to crush Rawana. A moss-covered temple lies deep within the jungle.

    North of Tabanan is one of Bali’s most venerated temples, Pura Luhur Batukau )  (daily daylight hours; charge),on the slopes of 2,276-metre (7,467ft) Gunung Batukau. Further north at Danau Bratan ! , a lake on the road crest to the north shore and a water source for surrounding farmlands, is Pura Ulun Danu Bratan (daily daylight hours; charge), which honours Dewi Danu, goddess of the lake.

Visit BALI

OTHER ISLANDS

From the highlands of Sumatra to the amazing jungles of Kalimantan, Sulawesi and Papua, some of
the world’s best dive sites and the varied wonders of Nusa Tenggara, the vast sprawl of islands that
make up Indonesia offer endless possibilities for intrepid travellers.

     The little-visited islands outside overcrowded Java and Bali are a real-life paradise for adventurers and anthropologists. It is mind-boggling how many different cultures each with its own handicrafts, languages, architecture and rituals  can be found in a single country, and the vast majority of them are outside Indonesia’s two major points of entry.

      In Sumatra, ethnic groups range from the mostly Christian, once cannibalistic Batak to one of the planet’s few matrilineal clans, now primarily Muslim. Kalimantan has its Dayak tribes, and in Sulawesi the Torajans still hold elaborate funeral rituals, requiring the sacrifice of hosts of buffalo and pigs. Papua (formerly called Irian Jaya) is the land of Indonesia’s most remote tribes, and the eastern part of sparsely inhabited Nusa Tenggara (‘Southeastern islands’), extending eastwards from Lombok to Timor, is home to hand-weaving cultures that have survived for generations in Indonesia’s poorest area.

 

Get around by ferry.

Corrie Wingate

Extreme surfers have long known about the power waves, particularly off southern shores. Divers have only begun to discover various subterranean ecosystems. The islands’ majestic volcanoes and mountains beg to be climbed, their caves explored, and their forests trekked. Some of the planet’s rarest creatures are found in the ‘Other Islands’ of Indonesia. Be forewarned that travel to areas outside of major cities and towns can be slow and difficult. But, of course, it is their very
remoteness that has kept old traditions alive.

Sumatra
Entering Sumatra via Medan , Gunung Leuser National Park is Sumatra’s prime orang-utan viewing destination. Encompassing 8,000 sq km (5,000 sq miles) of dense jungle, the Park is also home to elephants, rhinos, sun bears, tigers, and some 500 bird species. The Bohorok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre  at Bukit Lawang has a well-run station with a superb visitor centre and offers guided jungle treks.

The mountain heartland
To visit the heartland of the once-cannibalistic Batak, take the scenic route from Medan to Danau Toba 2 [map] (Lake Toba) via Berastagi. On the eastern shore of this, the world’s largest and deepest crater lake, is Parapat   offering deluxe hotels, golf courses, watersports and a refreshingly brisk climate. Samosir, the island that dominates the lake is, at 1,000 sq km (380 sq miles), almost the size of Singapore. The carved boat-like tomb of animistic King Sidabutar and ritual statues of buffalo
sacrifices are in Tomok on Samosir’s east coast. Nearby Ambarita has three megalithic complexes where the fates of prisoners were once decided and prisoners were executed and eaten.

       The world’s largest matrilineal society, the Minangkabau culture, is reached via picturesque Bukittinggi , some 250km (155 miles) to the south. From there, make excursions to the plains of Tanah Datar to see traditional Minangkabau architecture, with roofs turned up to resemble the horns of a water buffalo. The area’s kain songket (hand-woven cloths with gold or silver borders) are coveted formal wear for Jakarta ladies and are relatively expensive.

Minangkabau architecture near Bukittinggi.

Corrie Wingate/Apa Pub lications

Coasts and islands

Off Sumatra’s west coast is a string of ancient islands, the most-visited of which is Nias, known for its stone architectural styles and rituals and world-class surfing.

      Comprising estuaries, marshes and open grassland along the southeast coast, Way Kambas National Park, entered via Bandar Lampung , is the best place to see wild elephants, while birdwatching is a delight. All are best observed by boat trips arranged by Park authorities. Elephant-training classes are held daily at 8am and 3pm.

Lombok to Timor
The unique Sasak culture of Lombok  and its especially fine earthenware attract a few visitors, but the island is best known for its beaches and scenery. Lombok is part of the Lesser Sunda Islands chain. The capital is Mataram, at the southern end of the coastal tourist strip.

Senggigi’s beautiful beaches, on Lombok’s western coast, have good coral for snorkelling and diving, and primarily attract those who seek solace from Bali’s hustle and bustle, with accommodations ranging from budget to deluxe. Kuta is famous for beautiful, deserted, white sand beaches. Southern Lombok is considered among the best in the world for surfing, and includes
Desert Point at Banko Banko. Sekotong, in southwestern Lombok, is known for its numerous scuba diving locations. Volcano climbing – not for novices – and trekking for all levels are popular in Rinjani National Park . Budget-minded divers revel in the laid-back remoteness of three small islands off the northwest coast: Gili Meno, Gili Air and Gili Trawangan.

Sumbawa and Komodo
East of Lombok is Sumbawa , whose port town, Bima, is a gateway for Komodo National Park. There is world-class surfing on the west coast and epic waves on the southeastern coast at Hu’u’s Lakey’s beach. Gunung Tambora  for serious climbers only   has a gaping 2,820-metre (9,250ft) -high caldera and spectacular views.

Komodo island , east of Sumbawa, is home to the world’s largest reptile, Varanus komodoensis, the Komodo dragon. Treks begin at Loh Liang ranger station to see these remarkably large lizards in their natural habitat. Neighbouring Rinca (pronounced ren-cha) island, is more rugged and not as crowded as Komodo can be in the high season (July and August), and is a great place for trekking. Scuba diving and snorkelling in the offshore waters is some of the best in the region.

Flores, Ikat weavings and crater lakes
The Trans-Flores highway winds its way from western Flores at Labuhanbajo  an entry point to Komodo National Park  to Larantuka in the east, the departure point to the Solor and Alor archipelagos.
   
     From the west, Ende is the beginning of Flores’ magnificent hand-woven textile cultures, while the ikat cloths of villages near Maumere sport a greater variety of colours. At Moni, visit Gunung Kelimutu at sunrise to see three adjacent volcanic crater lakes believed to house the spirits of sorcerers, sinners and virgins.

For hand-woven textile enthusiasts, the main attraction of the Solor and Alor 9 [map] islands are their primitive ikat
        weavings. Recently, Alor has established itself as a prime diving site. Between the two groups of small islands is Lembata, noted for its harpoon-wielding traditional whalers.

Timor and other islands
Kupang , Timor, is the usual turn-around point for excursions from the west through Nusa Tenggara. Rote (also spelt Roti), southwest of Timor, shelters more than 18 ethnic groups and is known for its colourful ikat weavings and its southern
beaches.

Although Sawu (also spelt Savu), further west, is a poor, dry island, its people, particularly the women, and their handwoven ikat cloths are exquisite.
Of all the ikat weaving cultures in eastern Indonesia, Sumba !  is perhaps best known. Its elaborate megalithic tombs, annual Pasola ritual battles, and mind-blowing surfing have attracted visitors for decades.

Kalimantan
Despite the well-documented efforts of the logging companies, much of Kalimantan – the Indonesian part of the huge island of Borneo  is still a remote jungle wilderness.

The principal point of entry to eastern Kalimantan is the town of Balikpapan @ , although neither it, nor Samarinda up the coast, hold much interest for travellers. These two towns are, however, gateways to the great Sungai Mahakam (Mahakam River), where several Dayak tribes live. Tour packages are the easiest way to traverse the Mahakam, and Tenggarong, about 2 hours away, is where cruises begin.

Muara Muntai, home to the Kutai Dayak, is the departure point for exploring the mid-Mahakam lakes region. At Tanjung Isuy, the most popular destination in the area, Dayak welcome rituals are frequently performed. There is a rebuilt longhouse with 24 doors  the only two-storey longhouse in Kalimantan at Mancong village.

OTHER ISLANDS